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Three wine professionals interviewed by Livingetc say a thin stem is not a universal measure of a good wine glass. They emphasize factors including balance, bowl shape and rim, while saying the glass should suit the wine and dining setting.
Three London wine professionals interviewed by Livingetc say a wine glass does not need a thin stem to be suitable: its balance, bowl and rim, along with the restaurant or table setting, are more useful considerations. Their views offer practical guidance for diners choosing glassware, but do not establish that one style improves every wine.
Michael Mackenzie, who leads the wine program at Poon’s at Somerset House, said a glass should be judged as a whole rather than by the thickness of its stem. He pointed to its proportions, balance and feel in the hand, as well as the bowl’s size and curvature. In his view, a glass should let someone focus on the wine rather than distract from it.
Mackenzie said antique glasses with thicker, sometimes ornate stems can suit a special occasion. At Poon’s, he reported that the team tested a range of glasses and selected the Schott Zwiesel Vina Burgundy Glass as a good fit for its criteria. That recommendation reflects the restaurant’s selection, not an independent comparative test reported in the article.
Anna Patrowicz, head of drinks at Akub, said she personally likes thin-stemmed glasses for their elegant appearance, but chooses stemware to match a restaurant’s decor and atmosphere. For her, a thin rim is a priority because she wants little interruption between the wine and the drinker. She also said the bowl should fit a 125-milliliter pour while leaving room to swirl the wine; she named the Zalto Universal Wine Glass as a longstanding go-to.
Abe Drewery, co-founder and wine expert at Teal by Sally Abé, said a good glass should allow aromas to express themselves and make the wine enjoyable. He recommended the Richard Brendon x Jancis Robinson Universal Glass for white, red and sparkling wines. The Livingetc report presents these as professionals’ preferences; it does not provide controlled tasting results comparing the products.
What Matters Beyond the Stem
The advice separates appearance from function. A delicate stem may appeal to people who associate it with elegance, but the interviewees describe other features—particularly a glass’s balance, rim and bowl—as more relevant to how it feels to use and how it accommodates wine.
That distinction matters for diners and people buying glassware because it offers a way to choose without treating one fashionable silhouette as a rule. A sturdier glass may fit a busy restaurant or a particular table better, while a thinner rim or a bowl suited to swirling may matter more to someone focused on tasting. The experts’ remarks do not show that stem thickness itself changes a wine’s flavor.
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Three Restaurants, Different Settings
The Livingetc article frames the discussion around a familiar point of table styling: whether slim stems are inherently more refined than chunkier glass designs. It asked three professionals with wine roles at London restaurants for their views, rather than reporting a scientific study or a formal industry standard.
Their examples underline that glassware choices can respond to a venue’s character. Patrowicz said Akub chose glasses that were less delicate and felt at home on its organic table surfaces. Mackenzie discussed how an ornate antique glass might suit a special occasion, while Drewery recommended a universal design for several wine styles. These are individual and venue-specific judgments, not a single consensus on the best glass.
“What is key is the overall feel and balance of the wine glass, including the stem length and the tactile impression of the stem on your fingers.”
— Michael Mackenzie, wine lead at Poon’s at Somerset House
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No Comparative Test Reported
The article does not report a blind tasting, laboratory analysis or controlled comparison showing how different stem thicknesses or glass shapes affect wine. It also does not set out one design that the three professionals all endorse: their recommendations and preferences differ, and their comments reflect their own work and taste.
It is therefore unclear from the source whether any particular glass produces a measurable change in taste, aroma or enjoyment across wines and drinkers. The suggestion that bowl shape and rim can affect the experience is presented through the interviewees’ professional opinions, not quantified findings.
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Choosing Glassware for Your Table
The report describes no scheduled follow-up, new policy or further development. For readers choosing glasses, the professionals’ practical advice is to consider how the glass feels, the bowl’s room for the wine, the rim and the setting, rather than using stem thickness alone as a test of quality.
Whether a thin-stemmed glass suits a particular wine or occasion remains a matter for the individual drinker. The article’s recommendations can guide a purchase, but it does not identify a universal winner or provide evidence that one model is best for everyone.
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Key Questions
Do the three professionals say thin-stemmed wine glasses are always better?
No. Mackenzie says stem thickness is not decisive, while Patrowicz and Drewery personally favor thinner designs. All three discuss other factors, including the glass’s overall feel and the dining setting.
Which features do they say to look for in a wine glass?
The interviewees mention balance, proportions, bowl size and shape, rim thickness, and how the glass feels in the hand. They also say the glass should suit the meal or setting.
What glasses did the interviewees recommend?
Mackenzie named the Schott Zwiesel Vina Burgundy Glass; Patrowicz cited the Zalto Universal Wine Glass; and Drewery recommended the Richard Brendon x Jancis Robinson Universal Glass. These are their stated preferences, not results of a reported head-to-head test.
Does the report prove that glass shape changes how wine tastes?
No. It records the professionals’ views on glass design and the drinking experience, but reports no controlled tasting study or measured results establishing a specific effect.
Source: rss
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